The Bandsaw

 Probably the most versatile tool and in a shop full of dangerous tools, the safest, as long as you have enough sense to keep your fingers out of the line of cut. When a blade breaks, and they do, it's quite startling, though not particularly dangerous, as there is no driving force behind the blade.

My 14 inch Delta getting a blade change. The 14 inch Delta is the standard most bandsaws strive to meet.

I've modified my saw in two ways. First, the standard steel blocks in the blade guide mechanism have been replaced with a graphite and resin block, allowing tighter tolerances with out overheating the blade. Cool Blocks.

I never liked the standard fence, so I made one from some walnut and a bar clamp. This allows the fence some angle adjustability, as seldom will the blade or the stock allow a straight, parallel to the blade cut.

I sometimes add the bullnose for even more control of the angle of cut. When ripping a long board, the angle will change several times over the course of the cut. I mainly use the fence when cutting multiple pieces to the same width. Using the fences, you have to watch both the cut and if the stock is running against the fence. If I'm just cutting one or two, I'll strike a chalkline, and just keep the blade in the line, sometimes using my left thumb as a "fence". I used to, and still do cut mats and backings for oversize art by hand, eye, and line, so I have some practice in hand cutting.

Here, cutting circles with a jig. For ovals, I cut them by hand, as well as any curves. 

A versatile, comfortable tool to use. Table saws, planers, jointers and shapers all can do some serious damage, including flinging wood at explosive speeds. I won't even mention radial arm saws.