Cutting, joining, splines and blind frames

 Ginger, fearless Snow Dog of the Frozen North, rests.

I tried to post this from my phone, but only the pic posted; probably a blogger thing.

Answering questions from the previous post.

I generally make my own moldings, though I have a custom molder I work with for really large orders and "specials". I use a heavy duty shaper, with power feed, mostly, supplemented with some planes, and a scratch stock. The latest frames I'm doing are all scratch stock, no shaper, it's broken. Waste removal with the table saw, and a half inch groover.

Moldings are cut on a table saw, using the miter guide at 90 degrees, with an angled jig, that can be flipped, clamped to it. I join using a miter vise, hide glue, and an air nailer. I generally nail from one side only, unless a frame is very big. (I'll discuss tondos, circular frames at another time.) Hide glue, as it really is reversible, and my frames warrant restoration if damaged. A frame nailed from one side only is easier to dismantle, should that be needed. Hide glue is both reversible, but can be reactivated after many years. I also do frames that are butt joined, but that is another post, as in tondos.

Next I will, in most cases, attach a blind frame, so called because it is not usually visible from the front, though, modern usage includes any extra frame element added as reinforcement. These are butt joined, overlapping the miters, and glued and nailed. I use hide glue in frame making 99.9% of the time. Alternatively, I will inlet splines, made from 1/8-1/4 inch plywood. These will be fitted, glued and nailed in place.

The smushed finger is better ...